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January 27, 2017

Haast to Hollyford: Tramping from Cascade to Gorge River and Martins Bay

The cascade coastline from Haast to Hollyford is one of the most beautiful parts of New Zealand.  However few people actually go there.  I grew up at Gorge River halfway along this piece of coast line and over the years my family have given many people advice about tramping in this area.

Therefore I decided to write a post with some directions of how tramp from the Cascade Road End to Gorge River and onto Martins Bay.  From Martins Bay its simple, just follow the Hollyford Track to the road, no need for me to write directions for that part. 

It is an absolutely stunning piece of New Zealand, almost untouched by humans from the ocean to the top of the mountains.  I have been hiking in this area all my life and its wild, rugged and awesome!

 

The Haast to Hollyford Road idea

In the past few years there has been talk of building a road through the hills from the Cascade to Pyke River and on to Milford Sound.  One of the arguments for building the road is it opens up access to this special area.   What people don’t realise is that this area is special because THERE IS NO ROAD.   And we actually already have access to this area already.  It just requires a backpack, a tent, a map and a sense of adventure.   And the place is all yours.  Literally you might not see anyone else on a 5 day hike here.

So I encourage people to get out there and explore one of New Zealand’s hidden untouched gems.  And at the same time let’s preserve it for our future generations to do the same.

Ok, enough of that, below you will find the instructions on how to access this area and hike from Cascade to Martins Bay.

 


View Larger Topographic Map

So Where To Start?

Forecasts

Between Cascade and Martins Bay there are 6 rivers that don’t have bridges, one that has a boat and one that does have a bridge.  The rivers with out a bridge can’t be crossed after heavy rain.  As locals in this area we always look at different weather forecasts and in general we find these 2 website to provide the best forecasts. 

Metview

New Zealand Metservice

Norway Weather

From these websites you can print off your 5-14 day forecast and take it with you.

 

Graceie standing on Awarua Point Looking south to Milford Sound in the distance.  It really is a stunning untouched area

A stunning sunset at Gorge River

Equipment

For most of this route you are following the coastline or a 4×4 track so you need good Off Track Equipment.  My sister Robin and father Robert have walked this coastline barefoot but its probably not recommended for most people haha!  The beach is sometimes boulders and sometimes sand.

You are in the wilderness in New Zealand so take everything that you would usually take on a multi day wilderness hike.

Bring a Topo Map of the area.  These can be found at Department of Conservation offices or printed for free from this website.

Also I recommend having an emergency locating beacon (EPIRB) of some type or a satellite phone or some sort of satellite communication.  Cell phones don’t work ANYWHERE  here and if you have an accident you are by yourself.  I have always carried an EPIRB tramping and hunting since a young age.

For fit and fast walkers you can tramp this coastline with out a Tent.  However if you want more flexibility you should carry one.  That way you can stop if you are tired and camp where wherever.

And of course take food for your entire journey and I highly recommend taking at least 2 days of extra food.  Something light like pasta or rice.  I have seen many people use their back up food supplies.  Myself included!  There are no shops!

 

Leave Intentions

Its highly recommended to leave your intentions with a friend or the Department of Conservation.  I always tell my family or friends what I’m up to and I recommend you do the same.

In this modern world we now apparently leave our intentions on this website.  Adventure Smart.

 

The Tramp from Cascade to Martins Bay

 

Day one:  Cascade Road End to Barn Bay.   5-9 Hours.

First you need to find your way to the Cascade Road End  60km south of Haast.   Staying in Haast the night before is recommended as you get an early start.  Check This Link for some accommodation options

You can drive and leave your car at the gate,  hire a small van from Haast, or hitchhike.  My recommendation:  Hitchhike.  Most of the time rides are easy to find.

Start walking from the big white gate and in about one hour you will have to cross the biggest obstacle of the trip.  The mighty Cascade River.  If you are really lucky you might get a ride across the river with a local in a 4×4 or jet boat but don’t rely on that!

IMPORTANT:  You need to allow 2 days after heavy rain for this river to drop to a level safe enough to cross.  Even then 2 days is just a guideline and use your own judgment before committing to cross this river.  You have to find the best place to cross as well, usually its where you can see 4×4  tracks leading into the river and out the other side.

 

This picture is in the area that you usually cross the Cascade River. The forward moves over the months and years so its impossible to know exactly where it will be next time.

Continue to follow the 4×4 track all the way to the Hope River.

The only place to note is about half way just before you get to the end of the farm.  After the river crossing you go through farmland for 20-30 minutes and then the track goes hard left and into the bush for about an hour.  When you again come to a farm paddock follow the 4×4 track.  But when you come to a big silver shed and a small farm house with some old cars around it, turn Left!  Do not go straight ahead or you will get lost.

Just 2 minutes before reaching the Hope River there is a small green hut on the left.  Its a private Hut and is locked, however the bunk room on ground level is open for people to shelter in and usually has 2 bunks.  Its pretty rough but it is shelter all the same.

Upon reaching the Hope River I usually cross the river where the track finishes and walk down the river bed on the south side for 20 minutes. I then cross again and continuing to the coastline on the north side.  If you don’t feel like crossing the Hope River these two extra times there is a small track that starts on the right where the 4×4 track drops into the river just 2 minutes down from the Green Hut.  This track saves the 2 river crossings and is easy to follow most of the time.

It is also possible to four wheel drive, horse ride, motor bike or mountain bike to Barn Bay.  South of Barn Bay is not possible by any means other than by foot of by helicopter or Airplane.

 

Barn Bay

When you get to the coast at Barn Bay there is an airstrip an another locked private house just on the north side of the river mouth.  You can rent this house per night by contacting Robyn Hogland in Haast.

There are plenty of places to camp around the Hope River mouth on the north side and one camp site about 1km south as well.  There are often a pod of Hectors Dolphins swimming around in the surf in Barn Bay and you can catch Kahawai in the river mouth in summer.

 

Mum and Dad walking across the Hope River with Barn Islands in the background on a windy day. They have done this tramp countless times together

Don’t forget to have a camp fire in the sunset on the beach at Barn Bay!

 

Day Two:  Barn Bay to Gorge River. 6-12 hours.  18 km

Start by crossing the Hope River near the river mouth.  Usually quite an easy crossing but if it has been raining heavily the day or night before it will probably be uncrossable.

Continue south along the beach on rough boulders.   Exactly half way between Barn Bay and Gorge River you will find Sand Rock Bluff.  1km before the bluff you will find some colored fishing buoys hanging in trees and this marks the start of the 1km track that goes over the bluff.  It is not possible to go around the bottom of this bluff except at dead low tide with a calm sea.  I have walked this coastline countless times and have only been around the bottom of this bluff once.  Just go over the top, its easy and safer.

The track comes out to the beach just on the south side of the bluff.  Continue down the coastline all the way to Gorge River.

Between Barn Bay and Sand Rock Bluff there is only one place to camp at Little Cascade Bay.  South of the bluff there are campsites every 1-2 km.

 

This is a picture of my sister and I walking just south of Barn Bay when we were about 9-12 years old.

Graceie at the north exit to the track that leads over sand rock bluff

The Spoon River

2km south of Sand Rock Bluff you will find the Spoon River.  It is easily crossable unless there has been heavy rain the night before.  Be careful the rocks are slippery.

For most people the Cascade to Gorge River will take 2 long days.  However some of us do it in one day.  So if your young, VERY fit and want a challenge you can try to do it in one day.  My sister Robin holds the record of 8 hours from our house at Gorge River to her car at the road end!!

 

The Steeples, 2 km north or Gorge River

The view of Gorge River from 700m north

Gorge River

When you get to Gorge River it is rarely possible to simply walk across.  Only at spring low tides.  Just on the south side of the Gorge River is my families house.  About 9-10 months of the year there is someone here.  So if you stand on the north side and yell or whistle Mum and Dad will hear you.  We have a small boat to ferry people across and we are more than happy to give you a ride.  Please don’t hesitate to yell for a ride!  We love seeing people tramping this coastline.

Caution: If there has been heavy rain in the night it won’t always be possible to take a boat across this river. Be Careful.

You can also contact Mum and Dad ahead of time by email  catherinegorgeus@yahoo.co.nz   to let them know your coming.  They will have the kettle boiling and there’s always a cup of tea and waiting for you at Gorge River!   Anyone is welcome any time.  We also have New Zealand’s most isolated art gallery!

When we are away from Gorge River we always try to leave a boat on each side of the river.  Usually either a small inflatable or a canoe/kayak.  On both sides you will find the boat about 400m up from the river mouth.  Please leave the boats where you find them after use for the next person.

 

Usually you should find a boat like this or a canoe/kayak on each side of the Gorge River

On the south side of the river just next to our house you will find the Gorge River DOC Hut.  It has 6 bunks and is for public use.  Its almost always empty except for late March and early April which is the hunting season and you might have to share with some hunters.

At Gorge River there is an airstrip and it is a good place arrange an fixed wing aeroplane or helicopter to pick you up if you don’t plan to walk the whole coast line.  The closest helicopter is near Jackson’s bay and is called Greenstone Helicopters.

 

Day 3-4.  Gorge River to Big Bay, 8-15 hours.  27 km

This is the longest stretch of coastline and can easily be broken up into 2 days by camping part way.  There are camp sites on the north side of Ryans Creek, both sides of The Hacket, 1km north of Awarua Point and some places between there and Awarua River.

In saying that if you are fit you can do it in one long day.  And if you are Dad, myself or my sister you can do it in 5 hours haha!

Basically you follow the coastline all the way.  Above above half tide you have to scramble over a small bluff 1km south of Gorge River and inside Big Bay there is a track that goes for 100m behind Crayfish Rock.  Both are obvious and easy to find.

 

The view looking north from Longridge Point, South of Gorge River

Walking south towards Ryans Creek, The Hacket River and Awarua Point in the distance

Approaching the Hacket River

Caution: Ryan’s creek and the Hacket River are usually easy to cross.  BUT if there has been heavy rain during the night they can be flooded and impassable.  

The boulders between The Hacket River and Awarua River are slow going and its a little bit easier at low tide.  This is the hardest part of the whole coastline.

 

The Hacket River when there hasn’t been rain for some time.

Awarua Point looking in towards Crayfish Rock, Big Bay and the Southern Alps in the distance

Big Bay

When you arrive at the Awarua River you can usually cross around the river mouth and walk down the beach about 800m to the Big Bay DOC Hut.  If the tide is high or the river flooded, follow a well marked track up past a green white baiters hut on the north side for 20 minutes to a 3 wire bridge near the DOC Hut.

Big Bay is another great place to organise a flight to pick you up.  Fixed wing aircraft can land on the beach below half tide when the weather permits.

 

Looking out past Crayfish Rock towards Awarua Point and Long Reef in the South

Sunset at Big Bay

The inside of Big Bay DOC hut

Big Bay to Martins Bay, 5-8 hours

Head south along Big Bay beach and cross McKenzie Creek.

Caution:  McKenzie Creek is impassible during or shortly after heavy rain.  Any other time its easy enough to cross.

Continue along the coast line.  At Penguin Rock half way between McKenzie Creek and Long Reef there is a track that goes around the inside of the rock.  Similar to Crayfish Rock.

There is a seal colony at Long Reef and just before you get to the point its self there is a track that goes through the bush to avoid some of the seal colony.  Continue from there for another 30 minutes or so to the Long Reef DOC Hut.  This is one of my favorite huts in New Zealand, it overlooks the mighty Southern Ocean meeting the Hollyford River and is a really powerful place.

The view from Awarua River looking down Big Bay beach and on to Martins Bay

From Martins Bay

From Martins Bay you have 3 options.

1:  Follow the Hollyford Track for another 3-4 days to the Hollyford road end.

2:  Fly by fixed wing or helicopter to Milford Sound, Queenstown or back to Haast.

3:  Take a jet boat in the summer tourist season up Lake McKerrow and walk out to the Hollyford Road End.   To do this please contact The Hollyford Track Guided Walks   Phone numbers:  0800 832 226 / +64 3 442 3000

 

Useful Links

Greenstone Helicopters, Based in Haast.

Knights Point Air Facebook Page.  Or phone 037500123

Fox and Franze Heli Services Based in Haast

Southern Alps Air, Makarora, Wanaka

The Holyford Track information. (DOC)

GorgeRiver.org   More about my family at Gorge River

Fiordland Coastal Walks, Guided hikes along this coastline

 

Useful Reads

If you want to read my parents autobiographies please contact me to order a signed copy.

A Life On Gorge River

A Wife at Gorge River

 

Other route options

There are also other route options in this area.  For example:

Cascade Road end to The Pyke River via Gorge Plateau.

From Big Bay continue south to the Hollyford River via the Pyke River Valley.

Jackson’s Bay to Cascade River via The Cascade Plateau.

If you want more information on these tramps please message me.  Either myself, Robin or Dad has done these.

 

Now its your turn!

In this post I have given step by step in instructions on how to walk the Cascade Coastline from Cascade Road End to Martins Bay.   To walk in the opposite direction simple follow the directions in the opposite order.

I hope you find this helpful and please feel free to contact me for more questions before you set off on your tramp.

 

If you enjoy the post have a look at some other posts I’ve written from Gorge River, Antarctica and around the world.

Home At Gorge River Summer 2016

Expedition to Antarctica and the Sub-Antarctic Islands

Adventure into The Arctic and Sailing the North West Passage

Working and travelling China

 

 

2 Comments

  1. Brenda Collins says:

    Great guide for the Haast/Gorge river tramp.Thanks for that. Who better to ask than yourself ?! We are off there in 2 weeks ….Haast/Gorge River /Pyke and Hidden Falls Creek /Glenorchy.

    • Wildkiwi says:

      Thank you for the comment. I hope you have a great walk. You might miss mum and dad, they leave for some time in Australia on the 3rd i think.
      Have fun!